Aquarium food types

The hobby offers dozens of food formats. The best choice depends on species, tank size, feeding level (surface, mid, bottom), and how much variety you want to maintain.

Dry foods

Flakes & crisps

Best for: Surface and mid-water community fish
Pros: Convenient, widely available, easy to portion
Cons: Lose vitamins after opening; dissolve quickly and cloud water if overfed
Tip: Buy small containers and replace every 2–3 months

Pellets & granules

Best for: Most freshwater and marine fish; size pellet to mouth
Pros: Less waste than flake; nutrient-dense
Cons: Large pellets unsuitable for small tetras; some expand in water — pre-soak for goldfish
Types: Floating (cichlids, bettas), slow-sinking (community), fast-sinking (catfish)

Wafers & tablets

Best for: Plecos, otos, shrimp, snails
Pros: Target bottom feeders; algae and spirulina formulas available
Cons: Other fish may steal them; remove uneaten wafers after an hour

Frozen foods

Food	Typical use
Bloodworm	Carnivores, conditioning, treat
Brine shrimp	Fry, marine fish, community treat
Daphnia	Small fish, constipation relief (herbivores/omnivores)
Mysis	Marine carnivores
Spirulina cubes	Herbivores and mbuna

Thaw in a small cup of tank water — never microwave. Pour through a net to avoid introducing freezer water.

Live foods

Baby brine shrimp — gold standard for fry and small fish
Daphnia & microworms — fry culture; can be cultured at home
Blackworm — excellent for picky eaters; source from reputable suppliers

Risk: Live food can introduce parasites. Quarantine cultures or buy from trusted retailers.

Freeze-dried

Convenient middle ground between dry and frozen. Rehydrate before feeding to prevent digestive issues. Bloodworm and tubifex are popular treats — use sparingly.

Gel & repashy-style foods

Best for: Plecos, catfish, invertebrates, picky eaters
Pros: Customisable, high moisture, sinks and stays on surfaces
Cons: Requires preparation; spoils quickly once mixed

Choosing a staple + rotation

A practical routine for most tanks:

Staple (daily): Quality pellet or flake matched to species diet type
Rotation (2–3× weekly): One frozen food type
Treat (weekly): Live or freeze-dried enrichment
Vegetable (herbivores): Blanched zucchini, cucumber, or dedicated wafers

See freshwater diets and marine diets for species-specific guidance.

Storage & freshness

Format	Storage	Shelf life (opened)
Flakes/pellets	Cool, dry, sealed	2–3 months
Frozen	Freezer	Until use-by date
Live cultures	Per species needs	Days to weeks
Gel (mixed)	Refrigerator	1–2 weeks

Frequently asked questions

Do flakes lose nutritional value once the tub is opened?

Yes. Vitamin C in particular degrades once exposed to air and moisture, typically within a few months of opening. Buy a size you will finish in that window rather than the economical large tub, and keep it sealed and dry rather than open above a warm, humid tank.

Is live food worth the parasite risk?

Cultured live food — brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms raised at home or bought from a reputable supplier — carries very little risk and is excellent conditioning. Wild-collected food from ponds or streams is where the real risk lies, since it can introduce parasites and predatory insects.

Should I soak pellets before feeding?

It helps for greedy surface feeders and species prone to bloating, since dry pellets expand after being swallowed. Soak for a minute in tank water, no longer — extended soaking leaches out the water-soluble vitamins you are paying for.