Hybrid Peacock: Aulonocara spp. (Hybrid)
Hybrid Peacock Cichlids are man-made color strains of Lake Malawi Aulonocara, bred for extreme color intensity and unique patterns like the popular "OB" and "Dragon Blood" variants.

The Hybrid Peacock (Aulonocara spp.) represents some of the most vibrant and sought-after fish in the African cichlid hobby. While true species Peacocks from Lake Malawi are already stunning, decades of selective breeding and hybridization have produced strains with colors that no wild fish can match. Familiar names include the Dragon Blood, Strawberry, Firefish, and the multi-colored OB (Orange Blotch) Peacocks. These hybrids combine the relatively peaceful and elegant nature of the Aulonocara genus with intense, non-traditional pigmentation.
In the aquarium, they are legendary for their "showstopper" appearance. They are generally easier to handle than the more aggressive Mbuna and provide a constant explosion of color as they patrol the mid-water column.
Natural Habitat & Origin
While their lineage trace back to the rocky and sandy zones of Lake Malawi, Hybrid Peacocks are entirely man-made and do not occur in the wild. Some hybrids involve crossing different Aulonocara species, while others (like the OB variants) involve crossing Aulonocara with Mbuna species like Metriaclima. Because they are domestic strains, they are highly adapted to aquarium conditions but still retain the water chemistry requirements of their Malawi ancestors.
Care Requirements
Hybrid Peacocks are exceptionally hardy but require significant space and clean water. A minimum tank size of 55 gallons (200L) is recommended for a community. They produce a significant bioload, so heavy-duty filtration is a must.
Maintain stable parameters: a pH of 7.8 to 8.6 and a temperature of 75°F to 82°F (24°C to 28°C). They require hard, alkaline water. The tank should be scaped in a "Haps and Peacocks" style: plenty of open swimming space in the front and center, with stacks of rocks and caves along the back to provide hiding spots and territorial boundaries. A sandy substrate is essential, as Peacocks are "sand-sifters" that naturally hunt by listening for micro-prey in the sand.
Diet & Feeding
Hybrid Peacocks are opportunistic feeders with a preference for protein. In captivity, they thrive on a varied diet:
- High-quality cichlid pellets and flakes (rich in astaxanthin and spirulina to enhance color)
- Frozen foods (Mysis shrimp, Krill, and enriched Brine Shrimp)
- Note: Avoid high amounts of mammal protein (like beef heart) or excessive amounts of tubifex, as these can contribute to digestive issues like "Malawi Bloat."
Behavior & Temperament
They are territorial but generally less aggressive than Mbuna. Males can be quite combative toward each other, especially if they are similar in color. To manage aggression, it is common to keep an "all-male" show tank where many different colored males are kept together to disperse territoriality, or a harem setup with one male to several females. They spend most of their time in the open water, unlike Mbuna which hug the rocks.
Tank Mates
Suitable tank mates include other Malawi Haps and Peacocks:
- Electric Blue Haps (Sciaenochromis fryeri)
- Yellow Labs (Labidochromis caeruleus)
- Red Empress (Protomelas taeniolatus)
- Synodontis catfish (specifically S. multipunctatus or S. petricola)
Avoid keeping them with very aggressive Mbuna or large, predatory cichlids that could easily bully them.
Breeding
Breeding Hybrid Peacocks is straightforward as they are maternal mouthbrooders. A dominant male will display and lure a female to a flat rock or a pit in the sand. After spawning, the female will carry the eggs in her mouth for 21 to 28 days. Hybridizing already hybrid fish can lead to unpredictable but often beautiful results in the fry. Dedicated hobbyists usually move the "holding" female to a separate brooding tank to ensure the safety of the fry.
Common Health Issues
The most common concern is Malawi Bloat, often caused by stress or improper diet. Maintaining low nitrate levels and high mineral content is the best way to prevent issues. Like all cichlids, they can also suffer from Ich if subjected to sudden temperature fluctuations.










