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Showing 46 of 46 guides

Six juveniles become one pair and four casualties. Why angelfish turn aggressive at maturity, how pairing works, and what to do when the tank changes overnight.

Eight to twelve years, which is longer than most people expect and longer than most angelfish get. Why tank height and nitrate decide the outcome.

Angelfish are measured wrong. They reach 15cm long and 25cm tall, and tank height is the specification that decides whether their fins develop properly.

Warm, soft and clean. Angelfish want a hotter tank than most community fish, and the temperature they need rules out several species they are routinely sold with.

Angelfish pair up and spawn readily, then eat the first several clutches. Why that happens, when to leave them to it, and how to raise the fry when you decide to intervene.

Silver, zebra, marble, koi, platinum, blushing and veiltail — what the names mean, which combine, and the two forms that carry real care implications.

Bettas live three to five years, but most are already a year old when sold and many die within months of coming home. Why that happens and what actually changes it.

The five-gallon minimum, why bowls and desktop cubes fail, and the four things a betta tank needs that a community tank does not: a lid, a heater, gentle flow and resting places.

Bettas want warm, soft to moderately hard, near-neutral water with almost no flow. Temperature is the parameter that actually decides how a betta does — and the one most often left to the room.

Fin rot, velvet, dropsy, constipation and swim bladder trouble — how to tell them apart, what to treat and what to fix instead. Most betta illness is a water quality problem with a name attached.

Veiltail, halfmoon, crowntail, plakat, double tail and the rest — what the names mean, which are hardier, and why the most spectacular tails are the ones that cause the most problems.

Female bettas are not peaceful, and sororities fail more often than they succeed. What a sorority actually requires, why most collapse, and the honest alternatives.

Bristlenose plecos need wood to digest properly, and they will starve in a clean tank. What to feed, why algae is not enough, and which wood works.

Five to twelve years, and the commonest cause of a short one is slow starvation in a clean tank. What actually shortens it and what an old bristlenose looks like.

100 litres, a cave, driftwood and more filtration than the fish's size suggests. What a bristlenose actually needs, and the bioload nobody warns you about.

Bristlenoses are the easiest catfish to breed and often do it without being asked. Sexing by bristles, cave requirements, and why the male does all the work.

Standard brown, albino, super red, calico and longfin — what each is, which are genuinely different, and why longfins need a bit more care.

A bristlenose reaches 12cm. A common pleco reaches 45cm and outgrows almost every home aquarium. They are sold side by side at the same size and price, and the mistake is expensive.

Guppies are omnivores that need more vegetable matter than most flake food gives them. What to feed, how much, how often, and why overfeeding is the most common cause of a sick guppy.

Guppies live one to three years, and shop guppies routinely die far sooner. What the real range is, why modern fancy strains are so fragile, and the levers that actually extend it.

How many guppies fit in a 40L, 60L or 100L tank, why the 2:1 female-to-male ratio matters more than the number, and how fry turn stocking into a moving target.

Guppies are tropical fish and need a heater in almost every home. What the real range is, why running warm shortens their lives, and how to size a heater properly.

Guppies need hard, mineral-rich water. Soft water is the most common cause of clamped fins, faded colour and unexplained losses — here is what to test and how to fix it.

Gestation, brood size, stored sperm, and what fry actually need in their first six weeks — including why your shop-bought female is already pregnant.

Guppy disease (Tetrahymena), Camallanus worms, columnaris and fin rot — how to tell them apart, and why modern fancy guppies die in their first month.

Delta, veiltail, lyretail, double sword and the rest — plus cobra, tuxedo, mosaic and moscow colour strains, and which are actually easier to keep.

Sexing guppies is easy once they are grown and genuinely difficult before four weeks. The gonopodium, the gravid spot, and how to sex a juvenile before it breeds in your grow-out tank.

Poecilia reticulata and Poecilia wingei differ in size, fin shape and colour — but they interbreed freely, which is why most shop "Endlers" are hybrids.

Mollies are much bigger and messier than the tank they get sold for. Real sizes for common and sailfin mollies, the female-heavy ratio, and planning for constant fry.

The most argued-about question in livebearer keeping. Mollies do not require salt, but they do require hard mineral-rich water — and the two get confused constantly.

Mollies breed whether you plan to or not, and their fry are large enough to survive. Gestation, sperm storage, and why a molly tank fills up faster than a guppy tank.

The shimmy is not a disease. It is a symptom with a short list of causes, almost always water chemistry — and it is reversible if you read it right.

Short-fin, sailfin, lyretail and balloon — which are size differences, which are colour, and which one is a deformity you should think twice about buying.

Both are hard-water livebearers that breed constantly, and they are not interchangeable. Size, bioload, tank requirement and fry behaviour all differ more than the shelf suggests.

Neon tetras can live five years and most die within one. The gap is almost entirely tank maturity, temperature and school size — not the fish.

Six is the number people repeat and it is too few. Why neon tetras need ten or more to behave like neon tetras, and what tank actually holds them.

Soft, acidic and cooler than most tropical tanks. Why neon tetras are the one common community fish that suffers in hard water, and the temperature most people get wrong.

Neon tetras will not breed in a normal community tank, and the reason is specific: they need near-mineral-free water and darkness. The full method, honestly described.

Neon tetra disease is real, incurable and over-diagnosed. How to tell it from false neon tetra disease and from ordinary stress, and what to do when you see it.

The red stripe is the whole answer: half the body on a neon, the full length on a cardinal. Plus the differences in size, price, hardiness and water that actually decide which you should buy.

Zebra danios nip, but not in the way people assume. What the chasing actually is, which tank mates it ruins, and the counterintuitive fix.

Three to five years, and temperature is the biggest lever you have. Why a cooler tank buys real time, and what an old danio looks like.

Zebra danios need length, not volume, and a group of at least eight. In a short tank or a small group they become the fin-nipper everyone complains about.

Zebra danios are the one common community fish that genuinely does well unheated — in the right room. The real range, when to skip the heater, and why warm tanks shorten their lives.

Zebra danios are the easiest egg-scattering fish to breed and the standard first project. Conditioning, the marble trick, and raising fry that are too small for brine shrimp.

Longfin, leopard, golden and the fluorescent GloFish — what each one is, which are genuinely different fish, and the care implications nobody mentions on the label.